We fantasize about life with a private chef, so we invited Jon Ellsaesser over for an afternoon to make some tasty treats for the Tipsy Saturday crowd. Talk about a winning idea. He brought in some gravlax (cured salmon for all you non-Nordic folk) with tiny dollops of crème fraîche, and we poured our zesty Hugues Beaulieu Picpoul De Pinet ($11). The crisp citrus in this affordable bottle makes the fish shine; it’s a pairing worth repeating all Spring long.